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Mollys dad- 08-31-2008
It has been suggested that I try training Molly up as a Search and Rescue dog for use in mountain rescue. I need to have been a full team member for a year, so we can't start formal training until next spring, but I can get a few of the basics done so we're ready to start. I'm working up to 10 minute down stays and the heel work still needs work...

However, the main problem is the dreaded 'stock -*test*-('")'. This is to find out if they are safe to work in a situation with sheep, cows etc.

Here's my question... Any tips on getting Molly to be 'bombproof' with farm animals?

Thanks in advance.

OzzNArch- 09-03-2008
Hi there,

Apologies if I am being to simplistic here, but this is how I start things off.

I always have to introduce my young dogs to livestock at an early stage, as here in North Wales we Shoot over ground mainly stocked with Sheep.

As sheep are easily "spooked" and run off suddenly, they are a great -*test*-('") for the "steadying up process" of any young dog.


Try taking the dog into a field on the lead, with the sheep being as far away from you as possible initially.(don't walk through, or close to them in order to access the field, as this can spook both parties at the first introduction).

always "read the dogs reaction " (as you would in any new situation) . Talking calmly and keeping the dog well under control and at heel. Try sitting at a distance and letting the dog observe them. The dog will probably want to go and investigate, but keep your distance for the first few "visits".
Should the dog ever lurch as if to chase or pull on the lead, sit the dog and say no ,leave . repeat this every single time this happens.

Building the dogs confidence and steadyness over a few visits you can progress by closing the gap bit by bit each time until you feel the dog is more at ease, and less likely to want to run after them (always on the lead of course).

You should probably be able to tell how to progress this stage by judging your dogs reactions each time you visit.
Over time the dog should settle,and get used to the sheeps erratic movements, and you will find that you can then work the dog off the lead in the field (still at a distance) .The dog will, if preoccupied with dummy work or the like, (a ball even, if not a gundog! ) only look over and may give indications of wanting to investige. Always be ready to "hup" the dog (sit the dog) if this command is not embedded in the dog don't even try with sheep until its rock steady to the drop !.

I am assuming the dog will be steady to drop in all of this, as it's crucial to be able to stop any running in , or all hell will break loose.
Alway throw any dummy / ball , away from (in the other direction from) the sheep.

After time (all dogs differ ) you should be able to work the dog off the lead, and the dog will ingore the sheep.

Remember...never put yourself in a position were you cannot control the dog

Hope this helps......and always seek permission off the farmer before you go on the land, if you tell him it's a working dog, they usually give it .

Good luck,

Mark.

Sir Freddy- 09-03-2008
I haven't formally stock -*test*-('")ed my youngster (nearly 18 months) so was thrilled that when in Derbyshire he was as good as gold. Background is that Chase is a Brittany, very 'sharp' and fast and an out and out hunting dog who I struggle to keep up with (he is not an ideal candidate for me as my first potential trials dog but I am stubborn too laugh.gif laugh.gif ).

So I was running him on the Tissington Trail and High Peak Trail, he was off lead and the stock (cattle and sheep) where safe but spooked at times by a mad dog hurtling up and down the trails where they could see each other. A couple of times they ran and he stopped (like he would to flush) so I praised him. During our holiday he walked closer and closer to sheep, cattle and horses and he remained quietly interested to ignoring so he was actively praised each and everytime he remained calm and focussed on me not the livestock. While on the trails there were decent fences between them, the rest of the time he was on a headcollar and leash.

My WSS is a bit more sheep sensitive but I can track him in a sheep field, give him a job he loves and understands and a stampede could happen and he wouldn't care laugh.gif .

My old Brittany I can walk off lead through new born lambs - I am not advocating this as a thing you should try but it is possible to engage the dog so much on a task that means you can deal with stock.

If you feel it might be a problem after tying Marks advice there is a Dog Trainer who offers Stock Training although she is down south - Angela Stockdale and it might be worth checking her website (which of course I can't find at the mo ph34r.gif ).

Mollys dad- 09-05-2008
Thanks for the info. Lots of fun ahead...

Baggins- 09-07-2008
Here's a link to Angela Stockdale's website. I haven't any experience of her stock training though have seen her in action in other spheres and would recommend her.

Helen- 09-07-2008
Another thing to remember is that hill sheep are very different. Some dogs are fine around fields of sheep but some just can't resist the temptation to chase hill sheep. I have heard they smell different but no idea how true that is.

In my experience, springers, don't have too much of a problem with sheep chasing - there are of course exceptions.

Helen

Fuddles- 09-08-2008
How do you stand when a farmer puts sheep in a field that is blatantly not secure ? A cow could get through the gap in the fence never mind a Springer or a sheep.

dry.gif

Helen- 09-08-2008
..and the springer chases the sheep in the field? My guess is that he would have every right to shoot the dog. It is ultimately, the owners responsibility to stop dogs worrying livestock.

Helen

Fuddles- 09-08-2008
Oh yep I get that H and fair enough, fortunately, mine are under control wink.gif just think it a poor do. The huge gap is right next to the regular dog walk. Just seems daft on his part. rolleyes.gif

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